Mini Maus(er)

In 1896 Mauser introduced what was to become (arguably) the first commercially successful semi-automatic pistol, the C96. It was initially offered in the powerful, high-velocity 7.63x25mm Mauser cartridge, and it was a potent, flat-shooting pistol. With the addition of it’s holster/shoulder stock it could easily ‘reach out and touch someone’ at a hundred yards or more. The success of this gun helped usher in the age of semi-auto pistols.

Mauser C96, commonly known as the ‘Broomhandle’ for it’s odd grip-shape. Which frankly doesn’t look like the handle of any broom I’ve ever seen.

The gun was widely used even though it failed to land a major military contract, though many nations made relatively small purchases for military use. It continued to be produced until 1937 and large numbers were exported across the world, notably to China.

Despite quickly becoming an Icon the gun was far from perfect. It had a fixed ten-round magazine located in front of the trigger guard and reloaded from stripper-clips. It was in some ways ungainly and quirky, and by the beginning of the 20thC. sleeker, more efficient and handier guns were coming along by the bucket-load. While Mauser was happy to keep making the C96 as long as there were buyers, they felt that to be truly competitive they needed something more in-line with the emerging civilian and military markets.

They decided they should launch a family of guns, each with a common appearance, features and manual-of-arms covering everything from pocket pistols to full-sized service arms. Not at all a bad idea, and they started with a locked breech gun chambered in 9x19mm… which turned out to not be a good idea, but that’s a whole ‘nuther story. They never did get the bugs worked out of the service-caliber gun, but they kept on with the idea of the family of guns and in 1910 they introduced the first of the new line, imaginatively named the 6.35mm (the European designation for .25 ACP.) These guns are now referred to as the Model 1910, but this was never official Mauser nomenclature.

The Model 1910 .25 ACP

This was a small (but not tiny) straight-blowback pistol chambered in .25 ACP/6.35mm Auto, Jon Browning’s answer to the .22 LR for automatics. The diminutive gun featured a removable 9-round magazine carried in the pistol’s grip, a unique safety, a 3″ barrel and a wrap-around wood or plastic grip.

One of the afore-mentioned interesting features is the safety, which is identical to the Model 1914’s that we discussed in an earlier post. To engage the safety you push down on the lever behind the trigger guard on the left side of the gun. To release it you press the button just below the lever. It’s not hard to learn and is kind of neat.

The slide locks open after the last shot… and it’s stays locked open until you insert a fresh magazine.

Another feature it shares with the Model 1814 is the slide lock, somewhat unusual on a .25 auto. It locks open after the last round in the magazine is fired. In fact it will lock back if you rack the slide when there is no magazine in the gun. The only way to get the slide to drop back into battery is to insert a new magazine, whether the magazine is loaded or not. Of course if it is loaded the gun will chamber a round when the slide closes. This was intended to facilitate rapid magazine changes, but some people find this irksome, though I don’t mind it. Even though Mauser continued this system in their later HSC it never really caught on with other manufacturers.

Even in the early days of semi-automatic pistols this was a bit of an odd duck; not as compact as most other .25 ACP pistols, not as potent as slightly larger .32 and .380 autos. This did not seem to dissuade buyers, however; over the next few decades they sold almost half a million across all variations.

There were several of these, making aspects of the pistol easier to produce or more efficient, but it remained unchanged in essentials throughout its run. Production ceased at the outset of WW2, and the now rather antiquated design did not resume production after the war.

So how do you like it, Tinker?

Very well indeed, actually. It’s small and flat enough to conceal easily, but the grip allows me a solid two-finger hold that is much more comfortable and secure than most .25s. The trigger has a lot of take-up, but is light and crisp when you eventually get there; both Linda and I were quite impressed. It’s quirky, interesting, comfortable to hold and easy to manipulate. It even has surprisingly decent sights for a pistol of its era. What’s not to like?

Here’s the Mauser compared to a more typically-sized .25 auto, Linda’s Colt Junior.

Well, it’s rather heavy for it’s size; it is solid steel after all. Still, 14.6 ounces unloaded isn’t what anyone would call a heavyweight; certainly not a person such as me, who was raised when Men were Men, guns were steel and sheep were nervous. Still, there are snub-nosed .38 revolvers this light or lighter, and in these 21st century days of polymer uber alles it’s hefty for a pocket pistol.

This particular example is in excellent condition, with all of it’s original finish, though this is marred in some places with minor speckling. The bore is very good, with only a slight ‘frosting’ of the grooves.

So then, how’s it shoot?

I haven’t much ammo on hand; not enough for a proper test, certainly. Reloading components are on the way, so a full range-report will have to wait until they arrive and I have a chance to load more. I did test hand-cycling from the magazine, which is fine, and I fired eight rounds for testing purposes, again with perfect results. The gun is just large enough to sit well in my hand in a two-fingered grip, the sights are decent and the trigger is truly excellent- so much so that it will catch you out if you aren’t careful.

Accuracy remains to be seen, though at three yards the bullets hit exactly where I aimed them. Recoil was, as you’d expect, negligible, and the gun didn’t shift in my hand even slightly when firing. I expect this pistol will be very accurate in rapid-fire.

Ballistics

Typically pistols chambered in .25 auto have a 2″ barrel, but the Mauser has a 3″. You’d expect that extending the barrel by 50% would have an effect on ballistics, and you’d be correct.

My standard .25 ACP load is a 58gr hard-cast lead flat-nose bullet over 1.1gr. of Red Dot with a CCI 500 Small Pistol primer. When I tested it in ‘The Battle of the Mouse Guns’ this gave an average of 646 fps. and 54 ft./lbs. of energy; this is not at all a ‘hot’ load for this caliber. The same load from the Mauser did an average of 729 fps. and 68 ft./lbs. This is a 26% increase in power; not a huge difference, but at these low levels of energy every little bit helps. Alright then, how much does it help? The answer is rather surprising.

Bullets were fired from the left end to the right end.

From the 2″ barrel of the Colt Junior penetration was 12.5″ in Clear Ballistics 10% ordinance gel. In contrast they penetrated considerably further when fired from the Mauser. One bullet exited the top of the block at 8″ and struck the steel backstop hard enough to significantly deform the bullet. One bullet stopped nose-forward at 15″. The remaining six rounds all passed entirely through the 16″ long block.

After it became apparent the bullets were exiting the block I added another, placed a small block behind it, which rested at an angle owing to it’s shape. One bullet embedded itself an inch deep in this after exiting the main block. Three other bullets passed through the smaller angled block on paths that traversed 2-3″ of gel before striking the back-stop. I was surprised to say the least!

Recovered bullets showed little distortion, except for the bullet on the right, which exited the top of the block at 8″ and struck the steel backstop. I have been unable to account for the bullet fragment next to it, which was sticking in the back of the block.

The bullet is 16% heavier than the standard 50gr FMC-RN normally used in this caliber giving it significantly higher sectional density, which enhances penetration out of proportion to the increase in energy.

I think further testing is needed when I have more ammo reloaded, and I’ll perhaps try a variety of bullet types. I’ll have 35gr. XTP hollow-points and 50gr. FMC to try then.

Summary

This is a delightful little pistol, and I can see why it sold well. It’s much easier to manage and fire accurately than typical, smaller .25s, especially for someone like me with rather large hands, and the negligible recoil would have been much in it’s favor for inexperienced or occasional shooters.

Would I carry it? Around the property, where rats have occasionally showed their pointy little noses, sure. As a self-defense weapon? I reckon if you find an 8-shot J-frame .22 adequate this would serve you as well or better, but let’s be realistic. This is a century-old gun in an anemic caliber; you’d be better off not.

On the other hand as a fun little plinker with a bit of history you could do a lot worse, and with ammo prices and availability they way they have been I can reload .25 ACP cheaper than I can buy .22LR… if I can find any.

Take care and stay safe.

Michael Tinker Pearce, 3 May 2021

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The Trousse de Chasse

We’re going to depart from firearms this time, but we’ll be staying in the realm of hunting, so not too far off.

Hunting was a very different thing in Europe in 16th-17th C. Generally speaking it was restricted to the members of the political and social upper-crust. A gentleman might fire the gun, but dealing with the results was often why a game-keeper was employed. They were not merely there to serve during the hunt of course; in day-to-day life they were a combination of Hunting Guide, steward and park ranger for their employer’s estate.

Hunting was a social occasion often enough, and like most such occasions it was an excuse to re-affirm ones wealth and good taste. One way to express this was by embellishing the tools of the hunt. Guns, crossbows, knives etc. were lovely to see, and were often inlaid with precious metals, Ivory or Mother of Pearl. Carrying or providing your gamekeeper with impressive tools was a mark of distinction. Among those tools was the Trousse de Chasse, a set of knives and other tools for skinning and processing kills. While we might expect they employed more pedestrian tools in their daily life, on a formal hunt they needed to impress, and this meant these sets were often richly ornamented. It is unclear if these tools were used by the principle or the servants, or if that varied by time and place, or even on an individual basis.

A very fancy Trousse de Chasse with an elaborately mounted sheath.

These sets often included one or more skinning knives, a large knife referred to as a ‘cleaver’ for jointing or quartering game, an awl for stitching the meat up in the hide for transport and a two-tined fork for… uh, because fork. Some sets included a saw, a stiletto or other tools as well as the basics. Both the set and the common sheath that held it were embellished with silver or gold mounts and engraving.

Another very fancy set with elaborate mounts. No fork in this one…

I first saw pictures of these sets when I was in High School, and was fascinated. I thought ‘wouldn’t it be great to make on of these sets?’ Many years later when I became a knifemaker I often thought about making one, but such a thing would be rather expensive and take a lot of time… time that was hard to come by while making a living.

The thing is I haven’t seen anyone do a credible reproduction of one of these sets, and only one that might be is far enough enough off the mark that I’m not positive they were trying for a Trousse de Chasse.

Finally in 2020 I decided ‘to heck with it… I’m gonna make one!’ So I did. This required getting some antler, which is hard to come by in the correct size etc. around here. I’ve ordered antler online and generally been unhappy with what I got, but there is a solution; there’s a store just off the highway in Montesano that often has antler racks for sale, and it’s only a two-hour drive…

OK, time to get started. First I regretfully decided that my engraving skills are not yet up to the task. I decided to start with a rather pedestrian set with all the right pieces, but not elaborately decorated.

The cleaver, two knives, a fork and awl.

The cleaver was first, made from 1/4″ thick 5160 spring steel. The three deep fullers (grooves) on each side of the blade were a pain, but the result is worth it. I fitted it with brass bolsters and antler scales secured with brass rivets.

The two skinning knives were made from 1/8″ O-1 tool steel with antler scales riveted to the tags on either side. The fork is made from O-1 drill-rod stock and the Awl is from 1/2″ O-1 also. The awl is double edged and quite sharp; it has no trouble punching through leather. All of the knives, the fork and awl were heat-treated and quenched in Olive oil, then tempered in the oven to the mid-50s Rockwell hardness. The fork was drawn to a full spring temper, around HRc48.

The fork and awl have blind tangs inserted into sections of the antler from near the tips, with brass ferrules at the base to prevent splitting. Now for the sheath, which is a whole ‘nuther thing.

The finished sheath with all the pieces of the Trousse in place.

The sheath needed to be made from multiple layers of hardwood, all based on the cleaver, with another layer for the knives and a third for the fork and awl. I made this by cutting out the shapes of the blade from 1/4″ spruce then thinning them down appropriately before adding the next layer. After it was glued up I shaped the sheath carefully, tapering it in thickness towards the tip. That done I covered it in chrome-tanned garment leather and added a brass band sound the sheathes holding the tools. Light friction between the various handles keeps everything nicely in place.

I gotta’ say, it’s chunky; the whole set weights about 2-1/2 pounds. But the long-held goal was accomplished, and I would be happy to have it along on a hunt. The various tools will work as well as they ever did, and the cleaver would help a great deal with an improvised blind or similar chores.

Sadly I will not have that opportunity. Despite my misgivings about being able to find a buyer (not the least due to the price) it sold immediately. Maybe I should have charged more…

I need to work on my non-ferrous metal-smithing skills to make more elaborate fittings for the scabbard on the next one, and I am continuing to practice engraving. Yes, there’s going to be a next one, even if I never sell it. I want to document the process more, especially the sheath-making. Also it was interesting to make and I learned a thing or two, but more importantly these things are cool.

Stay safe and take care.

Michael Tinker Pearce, 29 April 2021

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Sometimes It’s the Little Things.

I love my Colt Detective Special. It has the best double-action trigger of any of my revolvers (though my S&W M1902 gives it a run for it’s money) and I have no trouble printing halfway decent groups at 25 yards DA. It’s chambered in .32 Colt New Police (.32 S&W Long) so even with stout loads recoil is never unpleasant.

When I got it it had the factory hammer shroud and unconvincing Franzite ‘stag’ grips. They didn’t provide the best hold so I supplemented them with a Tyler T-grip that my pal Jake sent me for Christmas. This worked OK but wasn’t entirely comfortable, tending to jam my middle-finger against the trigger-guard.

Tacky Franzite plastic ‘stag’ grips and a Tyler T-grip

Eventually the ancient plastic grips cracked, and I happened to have some antler on-hand so I made a new set, and since I was making them for me they were kind of chunky, but I found I no longer need the Tyler T-grip.

For a long time this gun was a range toy; I was dubious of trusting my life to a .32, but after ballistic tests of some of the hotter .32 S&W Long recipe’s in Sharpe’s 1939 manual I decided to use it as a carry gun. How well I handle and shoot the gun outweighed any concerns I might have about the caliber.

I put together a pretty nice paddle-holster for the gun that holds it high-and-tight, is nicely secure and is easy to put on and take off without messing with my belt. The I started practicing draw-and-fires at the range and found there was trouble in paradise; I was having to shift my grip on the gun during the draw. This was not good.

The problem was that pesky space behind the trigger-guard. Works fine on the range, not so good on the draw. Something had to change, and I didn’t want it to be those lovely antler grips.

Long before Tyler-T-grips came on the scene S&W offered a device that mounted between the grips and frame on their pre-war large-frame guns and filled in the space behind the trigger without pushing your middle finger into the guard.

Pretty self-explanatory; the metal shims fit between the grips and the frame hold the adaptor in place. Clever.

I thought I could probably do something similar with the Colt. I had a small scrap of Desert Ironwood and made a simple adaptor as a proof-of-concept. To attach it for testing I simply epoxied it in place, and when the adhesive had fully cured I practiced drawing the gun. Success!

I didn’t really expect the epoxy to hold permanently, but I took it to the range to for some draw-and-fire exercises and it worked a treat. However, as I pretty much suspected it would, the adapter worked loose after a few cylinders full. Time for a more durable solution.

I grabbed a piece of half-inch aluminum and cut and ground it to shape, then got a thin strip of scrap nickel-silver to make tabs to would fit under the grips to hold it in place, exactly as a number of grip adapters function. I figured I’d just silver-solder it in place and… nope. The low-temperature solder I use doesn’t stick to aluminum. High-temperature solder would melt the nickel-silver. I needed a different method. We will draw the curtains of charity over the scenes that followed…

Eventually I was able to rivet the clip in place with a small piece of brass tubing, and it was all a terrible pain in the butt.

The adapter is in place and will be secured by clamping the grips over the tabs extending over the grip-frame.
Adapter in place and nicely secured by the grips.
In this view you can see the tubular rivet that holds the clip in place.

Sometimes a little change can make a big difference. The adapter allows me to get a consistent grip when drawing the gun, moves my hand high on the backstrap of the frame and brings the sight into alignment naturally. It feels great in practice draws, and I can’t wait to try it out at the range next week!

Take care and stay safe.

Michael Tinker Pearce, 25 April 2021

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