Author Archives: tinker1066

How Obsolete Are They? .32 S&W Long

For many years in the 19th Century the short .32 S&W cartridge was widely considered to be the minimum viable self-defense cartridge, was chambered in countless small top-break revolvers, and not a few inexpensive solid-frame guns. Firing an 88gr RNL bullet at around 650 fps it was far from a powerhouse, and by the latter decades of that century it was increasingly understood to be under-powered.

When S&W introduced their new solid-frame Hand Ejector in 1896 it came with a new cartridge- .32 S&W Long. This was still a black-powder cartridge, but offered heavier bullets and a bit more velocity. Bullets weighed 88-100 grains and velocities ran between 750-800 fps. This was a significant improvement, and the new cartridge quickly developed a reputation for excellent accuracy. New York City’s police and several other departments adopted this round; it was felt that the .32 now had adequate power and it’s mild recoil and accuracy would promote better marksmanship for armed officers.

The test gun for this article- a Colt Detective Special with a 2″ barrel, chambered in .32 Colt New police (.32 S&W Long.)

Colt, not about to write ‘S&W’ on their guns, dubbed the cartridge .32 Colt New Police , but really it was just .32 S&W Long with a folat-nosed bullet. In the early years of the 20th C. this round was replaced in general issue by .38 Special, but remained popular in small-frame revolvers made for concealed carry well into the second half of the 20th C.

These days this cartridge is used primarily for target shooting, and remains popular in eastern Europe and places like India where caliber choices for civilians are strictly limited. In America it has been supplanted by cartridges like .32 H&R magnum and .327 Federal Magnum, though even these cartridges enjoy only limited popularity. Those who shoot this cartridge mainly shoot it in older and antique guns, and commercial ammunition choices are limited. There are high-powered loads available from Buffalo Bore, and several companies offer hollow-points. Unfortunately these hollow-point rounds do not have enough velocity to expand from typical revolvers.

So, low-powered and largely obsolete- but does it have to be? Can we, with modern understanding and hand-loaded ammunition, return this venerable cartridge to relevance? I undertook a series of tests to find out.

The Test Standards

To test these cartridges I borrowed from the FBI’s standard tests for law-enforcement duty loads. The test media was 4x4x16″ FBI-spec Clear Ballistics gel covered by four layers of denim to simulate performance when penetrating clothing. The FBI considers a round to have adequate penetration for duty if it passes through the denim and penetrates 12-19″ of gel. Clear ballistics gel is highly elastic, and often bullets ‘bounce’ back in the gel, so penetration is measured from the deepest part of the wound track, not the resting place of the bullet.

The backstop was 10″ of tightly packed cardboard, followed by pine 4x4s and 2 layers of 3/4″ marine plywood. My hope was that rounds that over-penetrated the gel-block would be captured in the cardboard without suffering further damage.

All loads were fired at approximately 10′ from the gel, and were fired over a chronograph to test their velocity from the 2″ barrel.

Lets make one thing clear- civilian self defense shootings are fundamentally different than law-enforcement shootings. Law enforcement shootings need to take into account longer distances, moving targets etc. Because of the dynamic nature of these events a bullet may need to pass through an extremity before hitting the vitals, or cross the body from odd angles, and needs enough penetration to insure the bullet will reach vital structures after doing so. While this level of performance may be viewed as the Gold Standard for civilian self-defense, in practice duty-style dynamic shootings are the exception rather than the rule.

Most civilian shootings occur at very close range, typically against a person presenting a full-frontal aspect. This being the case one might reasonably consider 9-10″ of penetration to be adequate for those instances. This is very much a personal choice, and I would not consider it crazy to accept a trade-off between expansion and penetration for civilian self-defense… within limits, at least, especially if the particular gun offered a peculiar advantage in concealability or usability for the individual.

The Loads

To limit variables as much as possible, all rounds were loaded with Unique powder over a Federal Magnum Small Pistol Primer, as standard small pistol primers have become unobtainium locally. Bullets were basically what I had on-hand or could easily obtain. The 2″-barreled Detective Special was used because the primary use for these guns, aside from target shooting, is likely to be civilian self-defense.

So, let’s see what’s what.

The Tests

90gr Hollow-base Wadcutter Target Load

These loads used a 90gr HBWC or reversed HBWC loaded to .92″ (the length of the case) with a heavy crimp to facilitate loading. The charge was 2.5gr.

Reversed Hollow-base Wadcutter- 814 fps., 132 ft./lbs of energy. 9-1/2″ of penetration, no expansion

Hollow-base Wadcutter- 843 fps., 142 ft./lbs of energy. 9-3/8″ of penetration, no expansion

Reversed Hollow-base Wadcutter
Hollow-base wadcutter
Neither bullet showed any expansion or even significant distortion.

There’s a reason these are referred to as ‘target loads.’ They are well-suited to that purpose, and would likely serve decently as a small-game cartridge. let’s up the anti a bit…

90gr. Reverse Hollow-base Wadcutter, high power

In this load the bullets were loaded over 3.5gr of Unique- a full grain more than target loads above. Again, they were loaded to an overall length of .92″ with a heavy crimp.

Shot #1, 1011 fps., 204ft./lbs of energy, 11″ of penetration. bullet was slightly distorted but showed no expansion.

Shot #2, 1014 fps., 205 ft./lbs of energy, 10-1/8″ of penetration. Bullet showed significant asymmetric expansion, with one side folded against the other as if the bullet were yawing significantly. maximum expansion was .498″

Unusual expansion on the second shot, none on the first.

90gr. reverse Hollow-base Wadcutter, OAL 1.30″, Max pressure

This load approaches SAAMI maximum pressure, and should be fired only from high-quality firearms in good condition. In this load the bullet is not fully seated in the casing, protruding like a conventional bullet. The charge is 4.3gr. of Unique.

1084 fps., 235 ft./lbs of energy, 8-5/8″ of penetration. Max. Expansion .604″. minimum .576″

Perfect mushroom, low penetration.

This’d be a great load for knocking a rabbit or raccoon on it’s ass, but it’s questionable for self-defense.

90gr. Reverse Hollow-base Wadcutter, fully seated +P

DO NOT DUPLICATE THIS LOAD FOR REVOLVERS CHAMBERED IN .32 S&W LONG!

Use this load ONLY in .32 H&R Magnum or .327 Federal magnum handguns.

OK, I screwed up with this load; it is far too powerful for older handguns and will damage many of them. Basically I took a Maximum load for a semi-wadcutter and used it with a fully seated wadcutter, somehow not taking into account the increase of pressure that would occur from the deeply-seated bullet. The Colt is pretty stout for this caliber and seems to have taken no harm from the two shots I fired, but using this load is a Very Bad Idea in a gun chambered for .32 Colt new Police/ .32 S&W Long.

Shot #1 1250fps., 321 ft./lbs of energy, 10-1/4″ of penetration. Bullet over-expanded (the edges actually rolled back) to a maximum of .560″, and a minimum of .474″

Shot #2 ERROR-2, no velocity reading. 8-3/4″ of penetration. Bullet over-expanded slightly to an average diameter of .570″

Shot #1 on the left, #2 on the right

75gr LRNFP

This bullet was loaded over 3.5gr., and has mild recoil and good accuracy, but produces very small permanent wound channels and high penetration

924 fps., 142 ft./lbs of energy. 16+” of penetration. No expansion. Bullet passed entirely through the block and was recovered 2″ deep in the layered cardboard backstop. Zipped through the block on a fairly straight path.

Penetration is more than adequate for self-defense, but multiple hits in a good location might be required for this to be effective owing to the very small wound channel.

96gr. LFP, maximum pressure

This load is SAAMI maximum pressure, and should be approached with caution, starting 10% below the listed load and working up. The charge is 4.3gr of Unique.

991 fps., 209 ft./lbs of energy. 16+ inches of penetrations, bullet was distorted but showed no expansion. The bullet passed entirely through the block and was recovered approximately 3″ deep in the cardboard backstop.

86gr, XTP Hollow-point, high-pressure

I don’t know if this load exceeds SAAMI max pressure for this cartridge, but I would restrict it’s use to only high-quality guns in good condition. The charge was 4.0gr of Unique.

1037 fps., 203 ft./lbs., 12-1/4″ of penetration, average expansion .371. You can see some early disruption on entry, implying that expansion started immediately. The bullet skipped off the surface of the board the block was sitting on and wound up deflecting deep into the block.

I would consider this the best defensive load of the bunch, and am inclined to do further testing. Performance isn’t spectacular by any means, but XTPs tend to give their best results at higher velocities. I think this bullet would shine in a .327 federal magnum loaded to around 1300 fps.

It would be interesting to try to develop a load based on a more modern hollow-point design like a Speer Gold Dot.

So, How Obsolete is it?

.32 S&W Long is definitely obsolete, but that doesn’t mean that it’s useless. It’s an excellent target and small-game round, and with good shot placement several of these loads would work quite adequately for civilian self defense in most situations.

I shoot this little Detective Special very well, and can keep rapid-fire shots in the basket out to 25 yards. I would not feel undergunned with the Colt, especially with the 85gr. XTP load, but I have more modern firearms in this size range that chamber calibers that perform significantly better, both in this type of test and historically in real-life shootings.

My wife Linda has an old wrist injury and is recoil-sensitive as a result, and she likes wheel-guns. My Colt or a S&W Terrier in .32 would work well for her, but her Sig-Sauer P238 holds more shots, is arguably more effective and she loves it. It’s just a better tool in general, and better for her specifically.

If a .32 S&W Long is what you’ve got, it’ll probably do as long as you do your part, but there’s always a ‘but.’ This cartridge isn’t obsolete because it’s incapable; it’s obsolete because there are better options if you can procure them, and procuring them isn’t difficult or particularly expensive.

None of this will stop me from enjoying my .32s, using them for small game or target shooting. It’s a sweet shooting cartridge, and there are some sweet guns chambered for it… and at the end of the day it’s not so obsolete that it can’t protect your life and loved ones.

Michael Tinker Pearce, 16 August, 2020

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Re-casting Clear Ballistics Gel

In my never-ending quest to waste money or irrelevant firearms I recently procured a block of Clear Ballistics Gel, and proceeded to shoot the heck out of it with different, mostly obsolete guns in mostly obsolete calibers. You may have read the post about .30-200 and yes, you’ll see more about these tests later.

9mm test in the gel block. Hey, I said mostly obsolete calibers!

Because of limited financial means I bought a 4″x4″x20″ ‘slightly irregular’ block, meaning it had bubbles, but not enough to render it useless. Not very big, but I was able to make about a dozen test shots before I judged the block was just getting too torn-up. Time to re-cast it. That’s the beauty of Clear Ballistics products; they are re-usable. They are also nowhere near as temperature-sensitive as more traditional ballistic gel formulations, and therefore a little more consistent.

I looked up how to re-cast it (I watched a Youtube video. How else?) and set out to do the deed. OK, you need a mold for the finished block, and while CB sells molds that aren’t outrageously expensive they aren’t cheap, and I am. Casting about the internet I found an inexpensive Pullman Loaf bread-pan. Apparently there are people that want long, slender, perfectly square loaves of bread. In this case the pan is 4″x 4″x 16″. that’s on the short side, but for a fraction of the cost of the real deal it will do.

The Pullman Loaf pan, two bread-pans and the block in large pieces.

The first thing you need to do is to reduce the block to small pieces, like an inch square or less. OK, I set out a cutting board, grabbed my trusty hand-made chef’s knife and… nope. Not going to cut it. So to speak. Instead I grabbed the trusty Cutco bread knife, and that actually worked pretty well.

Cutting up the gel into smaller chunks for an easier melt.

Eventually I realized I could cut inch-square strips and simply tear bits off, which made things much easier. As you go you want to remove any foreign material. One of the hollow-points I tested had shed some jacket so I was picking those bits out whenever I found them. There’s probably some lead left in there, but it will sink to the bottom during the melt, so it’s not a big deal.

Chunks of jacket and denim removed from the gel.

Denim, OTOH, will not sink to the bottom, and bullets will pull a surprising amount of this material into the gel… and it will deposit it surprisingly deep. This isn’t really going to effect much, but it is unsightly.

Since I knew I had more material than the mold would hold I also used two 2-1/2″ deep bread pans, and filled those and the mold pretty full with the chunks of gel. Clear ballistics says not to exceed 280 degrees, as this can cause the gel to yellow and, in extremis, can affect the structural integrity of the gel. I set a rack over the heating element in the oven and covered it with foil so I would get indirect heat on the mold and pans. I put the oven rack in the middle and set the temperature to 250-260 degrees. It would be good to use an oven thermometer, but I know this oven pretty well.

Ready for the oven. You can see the oven-light reflecting off the foil at the top of the photo. Not only does this disperse the heat, it will catch most spills.

Once all of the goodies are in the oven I set a timer for one hour. At that point it was… goopy. Seriously goopy. I stirred it with a big spoon, then added more cubes. Getting the 250-degree goop off the spoon was impossible, but no worries: after cooling a few minutes it peeled right off. I set the timer for another hour and waited.

More cubes added after the first hour.

After another hour all of the cubes were thoroughly dissolved, and I decided it was time to pour the bread pans into the mold and see where we were at. Goooooopy. Filling the mold to the brim emptied the two bread pans and left a thick coating of gel in the pans. I set them aside to cool and put the mold back in the oven for two hours. This is to let it mix thoroughly and give time for the bubbles to leave. After a few minutes of cooling the bread pans were as easy to peel as the spoon had been, so cleanup was not an ordeal. I set aside the remainder of the block and the peelings in a ziploc bag for later use.

After two hours I turned off the oven, opened the oven door and left the gel to cool in the mold overnight. In the morning a fully-cooled gel-block awaited me.

Maybe not factory perfect, but it’s looking good so far…

It wasn’t very hard to get the block out of the mold, and I discovered I was wrong. There was some darkening of the gel because I don’t know my oven as well as I thought, and the denim will indeed settle to the bottom.

Some of the yellowing here is lighting. Some, alas, is not. Have to set the oven a little lower next time.

So, I’m back in business with a… well, functional gel block. Yeah, it took all evening and then overnight to cool, but it worked. Tune in next time (or the time after that) for more How Obsolete Are They? tests.

Michael Tinker Pearce, 13 August 2020

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The Sig Sauer P-6 Police Trade-in

The Sig Sauer P6, used by the West German police from the late 1970s until the year 2000.

In the 1970’s West German police used a mish-mash of handguns. While some still used the Walther PP in .7.65/.32 ACP, others used 9mm Parabellum in the P1 (an alloy-framed P-38,) The P2, (the expensive but excellent Sig P210) or the P3 (Astra 600.) In 1976 a set of specifications was set out for a new police service pistol. It was to be a compact weapon chambered in 9mm with a magazine holding eight rounds, DA/SA operation and an external de-cocking lever.

At the end of testing three guns were identified as suitable and approved for purchase. The bulk of sales went to the Sig P225, which was given the designation the P-6. Unable to produce these guns in the quantities needed, Sig allied with, and later acquired, J.P. Sauer and Sohns, forming the Sig-Sauer company. Over the course of production some 40,000 P6s were produced, and the gun remained in service with German police agencies until 2000.

Another successful candidate from the police pistol trials was the Walther P5, a substantially updated pistol based on the venerable P-38. While a fine gun in it’s own right, it was not a popular choice for police agencies. No, I don’t know why, though I suspect many felt the barrel was rather short for a gun that was not much smaller than the other offerings.
The innovative PSP, later the P7, was a very good firearm, but it was also very expensive so it was not widely adopted.

The P6 featured an alloy frame with a steel slide, and weighing in at around 29oz. it made for a pretty handy service weapon without being too large for concealed carry. For police use plastic grips replaced the wood grips of the P225. Ergonomics are good, and all of the controls are easily reached by a person with average-sized hands. The gun is very easy to field-strip; simply lock back the slide, rotate the lever above the trigger downward 90 degrees, release the slide and slip it off the front of the gun.

Field-stripped, the P6 is simple with no small parts to be easily lost. The gun uses Browning-style lock-up, but locks on the barrel-hood in the ejection port rather than having separate locking lugs. The full-length slide rails give the gun great accuracy and consistent lock-up.

I have a sentimental attachment to the P6, so when the first police trade-ins entered the US I was quite disappointed that I could not afford one before they were all snapped up. Recently a friend, having forgotten that I wanted one, sold his off and I missed out again. Linda observed my disappointment and immediately went online and found one for me. We picked it up today and I did a little ‘getting acquainted’ shooting.

This particular gun was made in May of 1992, but you wouldn’t know to look at it. There is very little holster-wear, and everything is right and tight. The gun feels excellent in my hand and points naturally. The standard sights are good, a nice blocky front sight with a recessed white dot, and a deep, square rear aperture with a white post underneath. The trigger is very good for a service pistol; I have heard some characterize it as ‘heavy,’ and I can only assume they don’t regularly shoot double-action revolvers. More importantly to me the DA pull is smooth and doesn’t stack. There is some take-up in the single-action trigger, needed to deactivate the firing-pin safety, but the trigger breaks very crisply after that. Reset is not short but is positive and easy to use in rapid-fire and double-taps.

Rapid-fire at seven yards. I wasn’t not much concerned with ultimate accuracy today, just making sure the gun functioned well. It performed flawlessly, digesting a couple boxes of 115gr. hollow-points without issue.
Seven yard double-taps at the ‘body’ and rapid-fire at the ‘head.’ When transitioning from DA to single action the second bullet of the string tended to hit quite low. I’m pretty sure this is a training issue, and as I become more familiar with the gun it will probably get better.

If I had to pick one word to describe this gun it would be ‘smooth.’ Everything moves like greased glass, from the slide to the trigger to the de-cocking lever. Even inserting a magazine is conspicuously slick. Smoooooth.

I adore this gun, and expect it will be seeing a lot of range time in the near future. The gun came with two magazines, and I’ll be picking up a couple more. I’ll be making a holster or two and a mag pouch for this gun, and if it continues to be as reliable as this first outing I fully expect I’ll EDC it when conditions permit.

Michael Tinker Pearce, 12 August 2020

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